Pasture Fertilization

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dhs

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I was wanting to know what the recommendations are for pasture fertilization. For example how much 9-23-30 would i need to apply per acre, what time of year is best, and does it help to put it on half in spring and half in fall. Please be very specific and detailed. Also, please give facts not opinions. Just needing to gather info!!!

Thanks, dhs
 

shortdawg

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If you have plenty of water to make the hay I would put 200# of the 9-23-30 blended with 100-150# of Amonia Nitrtate if you plan to cut hay. Then about 100# of AN after each cutting.  You could take a soil sample and take it to your local Extension Office to get professional recommendations.
 

nate53

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Really it depends on what kind of pasture you have?  Grass, legumes, mix, warm or cool season grasses?  Also what you are going to use it for (are you just going to pasture it or hay it also)? 
Ideally it would be best to apply in spring March - May and then again in late August (the august application would be mainly nitrogen for grass growth in the fall and the amount would be less than the spring application).  Best right before a rain. 

I would go see the local fertilizer dealer and get some soil samples taken and they will give you a recommendation on application and what type to use (9 -23-30 might be the wrong blend for your soil samples).  Fertilizer isn't cheap so samples are pretty much a necessity to get it right.
 

Aussie

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nate53 said:
I would go see the local fertilizer dealer and get some soil samples taken and they will give you a recommendation on application and what type to use (9 -23-30 might be the wrong blend for your soil samples).  Fertilizer isn't cheap so samples are pretty much a necessity to get it right.
Very good advice. Need to know what your place is high-low in before you spend any money. What works for your neighbour may be wrong for you. That blend would be back to front for here.
 
C

cornish

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a good standard procedure is 120 lbs ACTUAL N P K, the actual poundage applied will vary with the fertilzer source you use.

As Nate said- You HAVE to have a soil test done.  In most cases, we take one every 2-3 acres.  I consider an acre to be a 208 x 208 square. 
 

willow

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dhs said:
I was wanting to know what the recommendations are for pasture fertilization. For example how much 9-23-30 would i need to apply per acre, what time of year is best, and does it help to put it on half in spring and half in fall. Please be very specific and detailed. Also, please give facts not opinions. Just needing to gather info!!!

Thanks, dhs

Take a soil sample and follow it.  Sometimes a soil sample can save you a fortune.  On the flip side it could cost you a fortune if your soil is poor and you follow it.  If you don't want to take a soil sample apply 100 lbs of actual N (it would be 217lbs of a 46-0-0).  If you use the 46-0-0 you need to add a Nitrogen stabilizer like Agrotain or use or 300lbs of a 34-0-0 without the Agrotain.  You will also need 20 pounds of actual P (it would be 43lbs of 18-46-0) in January/February, followed by 100 Units of N after each cutting.  This is all per acre.  If your going to pasture do the same in Jan/Feb and follow with 75 lbs of N every 60-90 days.  Your 9-23-30 doesn't have enough N to grow any type of grass.  These recommendations work for us, but we live in CO.  We raise orchards, fescues and bromes. 
 

nkotb

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Why do you recommend the 34-0-0 without the agrotain and 46-0-0 with?  I also wouldn't think 20# P would do much of anything to help, as most grasses use much more P than this, especially if you are cutting the grass for hay and not returning any manure to it.
 
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cornish

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nkotb said:
Why do you recommend the 34-0-0 without the agrotain and 46-0-0 with?  I also wouldn't think 20# P would do much of anything to help, as most grasses use much more P than this, especially if you are cutting the grass for hay and not returning any manure to it.

urea leaches real bad-- and is not recommended to even use without incorporating it.
 

willow

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nkotb said:
Why do you recommend the 34-0-0 without the agrotain and 46-0-0 with?  I also wouldn't think 20# P would do much of anything to help, as most grasses use much more P than this, especially if you are cutting the grass for hay and not returning any manure to it.

The Ammonium Nitrate (34-0-0) wont volatilize and the Urea (46-0-0) can volatilize under the right conditions.  Grass isn't a huge phosphate user. 
 

nate53

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I have a ? Willow, why would you put on fertilizer in Jan or Feb.?  (especially in Colorado).  I guess if you don't get enough rain to wash it away it would be alright but this is deffinitely not the case in Indiana (Jan and Feb).  You probably have a  reason I just don't know what it would be.  All nitrogen sources will eventually be leached, washed away, evaporate, or be used by plants.  Nitrogen is one of the most expensive and volatile ingredients in grass and crop production (it just doesn't stick around for a long period of time which is why applying when the plants need it or right before is recommended by most).
 

nkotb

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willow said:
nkotb said:
Why do you recommend the 34-0-0 without the agrotain and 46-0-0 with?  I also wouldn't think 20# P would do much of anything to help, as most grasses use much more P than this, especially if you are cutting the grass for hay and not returning any manure to it.

The Ammonium Nitrate (34-0-0) wont volatilize and the Urea (46-0-0) can volatilize under the right conditions.  Grass isn't a huge phosphate user. 

Depending on how many tons of grass you're pulling off the field, the data I found says anywhere from 30-40# nitrogen, 5-8# Phosphorous, and around 30# Potassium/ton of hay removed.  I would agree with Willow and most others, I wouldn't think of applying fertilizer without a soil test.  I would also take into consideration if you will be haying the grass, or grazing it.  If you are haying and not returning any manure back to the field, it's going to take more fertilizer than if you graze it and return at least some of the nutrients back.  Obviously it would take some sort of grazing management to get the manure distributed somewhat evenly, but that's a discussion for another thread.
 

willow

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nate53 said:
I have a ? Willow, why would you put on fertilizer in Jan or Feb.?  (especially in Colorado).  I guess if you don't get enough rain to wash it away it would be alright but this is deffinitely not the case in Indiana (Jan and Feb).   You probably have a  reason I just don't know what it would be.  All nitrogen sources will eventually be leached, washed away, evaporate, or be used by plants.   Nitrogen is one of the most expensive and volatile ingredients in grass and crop production (it just doesn't stick around for a long period of time which is why applying when the plants need it or right before is recommended by most).

We live in an area of Colorado that gets very little moisture and mild winters (for the most part).  We put it on in Jan/Feb in the hopes of catching what little snow we get in our area and then it is available when the plants are ready to use it.  Like I said before this is what works for us and it works well.  Without a doubt it all varies drastically depending on what area of the great 50 you live in.  That is why I think it is important that you talk to a local, trusted, fertilizer guy and get a soil sample.
 

nate53

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willow said:
We live in an area of Colorado that gets very little moisture and mild winters (for the most part).  We put it on in Jan/Feb in the hopes of catching what little snow we get in our area and then it is available when the plants are ready to use it. 

That makes good sense! :)
 
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