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ChristaCheatham

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Aug 8, 2011
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302
Hi! I'm Christa and I've been showing beef cattle for 3 years. I've been working very hard so my dad has promised to by me a little bit of a more expensive steer this year. What should I look for in choosing a show steer? Width, muscle, frame, temperament?? I want to find the best calf for the money I am willing to spend! Any helpful comments would help!! :)
 

Freddy

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Joined
Mar 31, 2007
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2,720
Location
North central -- Nebraska on highway 183 - 30 mi
Make sure that your calf has the dispsition that you don't pay extra money for an never able to show ...Some of the sales are skipping handling these calves an making sure that these calves are showable ...Especially these pasturesales an some of these Xup cattle can't be managed by the very best of the fitters ....
 

iowabeef

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Aug 24, 2009
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1,047
Location
Iowa
I would start by looking for good structure. Free and easy moving on both ends, not toeing out, does not step outside of its frame and has plenty of flex. 
 
J

JTM

Guest
Moderate frame, good structure and soundness. The three B's: Butt, bone, and balance.
 

The Show

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Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
841
Location
Colorado
Start at the nose and work your way back. Does he have enough extension through his front end, his he clean enough, do his shoulders set right or his he too straight, does he toe out, is he wide between his front legs, does he have a strong level top or does he break in it, does he have adequate bone, how is his tailhead set, is he deep enough, does he have enough muscle, is he wide set at his pins, and is he level from hooks to pins, does he set right on his back legs or is he post legged, does he have plenty natural spring of rib or is he a little flatter made, does he cover his tracks when he walks.

Those are all questions you should ask yourself. Most importantly though, does he put it all together in a nice complete package? As far as disposition goes, only you can judge that. I'm 6' 220lbs. so if I can't handle a calf or get it broke it's going to the sale barn, on the other hand though my little sister is 100lbs soaking wet and has only shown for two years so there are a lot of calves I wouldn't have a problem with that I wouldn't let her touch. A few things to look for are does the calf turn & burn from a quick movement or does it just kind of jump back, but keep watching you because it's never been around people before? The curious ones seem to be easier to work with. The ones that always have their guard up are the ones that will probably give you the most trouble though.
 

ChristaCheatham

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Joined
Aug 8, 2011
Messages
302
Thanks everyone!! I am located in central Indiana. There are a few good farms around selling calves. So I will look for what you all told me and see how it works out. I'm sooo excited I can hardly stand it! But I have to wait until mid september so I'm really hoping time goes by fast!! I also hope I can get a good steer for the money I am allowed to spend!! :)
 

rackranch

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Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
1,245
Location
under the X in Texas
I agree with the show with one exception... Start at the ground not the nose because if he aint right where he meets the ground don't even look above his belly... If he's not sound in structure then don't worry about the three B's and don't let them throw you off... first and foremost shuold be a structurally correct animal...

The Show said:
Start at the nose and work your way back. Does he have enough extension through his front end, his he clean enough, do his shoulders set right or his he too straight, does he toe out, is he wide between his front legs, does he have a strong level top or does he break in it, does he have adequate bone, how is his tailhead set, is he deep enough, does he have enough muscle, is he wide set at his pins, and is he level from hooks to pins, does he set right on his back legs or is he post legged, does he have plenty natural spring of rib or is he a little flatter made, does he cover his tracks when he walks.

Those are all questions you should ask yourself. Most importantly though, does he put it all together in a nice complete package? As far as disposition goes, only you can judge that. I'm 6' 220lbs. so if I can't handle a calf or get it broke it's going to the sale barn, on the other hand though my little sister is 100lbs soaking wet and has only shown for two years so there are a lot of calves I wouldn't have a problem with that I wouldn't let her touch. A few things to look for are does the calf turn & burn from a quick movement or does it just kind of jump back, but keep watching you because it's never been around people before? The curious ones seem to be easier to work with. The ones that always have their guard up are the ones that will probably give you the most trouble though.
 

polevaultcowboy21

Active member
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
42
Location
Texas
Structure structure structue. can not stress that enough. if the sturcture is there the easy part is next (the feed bucket)
 
Joined
Aug 1, 2011
Messages
24
rackranch said:
I agree with the show with one exception... Start at the ground not the nose because if he aint right where he meets the ground don't even look above his belly... If he's not sound in structure then don't worry about the three B's and don't let them throw you off... first and foremost shuold be a structurally correct animal...

The Show said:
Start at the nose and work your way back. Does he have enough extension through his front end, his he clean enough, do his shoulders set right or his he too straight, does he toe out, is he wide between his front legs, does he have a strong level top or does he break in it, does he have adequate bone, how is his tailhead set, is he deep enough, does he have enough muscle, is he wide set at his pins, and is he level from hooks to pins, does he set right on his back legs or is he post legged, does he have plenty natural spring of rib or is he a little flatter made, does he cover his tracks when he walks.

Those are all questions you should ask yourself. Most importantly though, does he put it all together in a nice complete package? As far as disposition goes, only you can judge that. I'm 6' 220lbs. so if I can't handle a calf or get it broke it's going to the sale barn, on the other hand though my little sister is 100lbs soaking wet and has only shown for two years so there are a lot of calves I wouldn't have a problem with that I wouldn't let her touch. A few things to look for are does the calf turn & burn from a quick movement or does it just kind of jump back, but keep watching you because it's never been around people before? The curious ones seem to be easier to work with. The ones that always have their guard up are the ones that will probably give you the most trouble though.

I agree with rackranch! Start at the ground always!! If they don't have any natural width as a calf they will not have it in the future, same with structural correctness. He needs to be able to move with flex and comfort and make sure he is not straight fronted. Look for a calf that not only has the muscling, but also has some show ring appeal because we all know that muscle, structural correctness, and width just dont always get you a win without some pretty! :) goof luck in your search. im from Indiana and i know that there are many good club calf producers in central and southern indiana. But remember! You don't need to buy the first calf you find... Do some looking around and find that perfect calf for the perfect price! Also, it is A LOT more fun to look around and see as many calves as you can.... :)
 

The Show

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Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
841
Location
Colorado
Structure cannot be stressed enough. It doesn't matter how deep or thick the calf is if it can't walk. A LOT of judges will give up a little bit of muscle for a sound made calf.

On a different note, don't buy the first calf you see. Look around because the calf will probably still be there in a few days. If you really like one, express your interest to the breeder and just tell them you've made arrangements to look at some other calves and you don't want to buy the first one you see. They should understand, and if they don't then I'm not sure I would want to be buying a calf from them. Most importantly though is price. Everything has one. Don't lowball a breeder because that can be rather insulting and then they may not even want to sell you a calf. However, if their asking price is within a few hundred dollars of what you have to spend try to negotiate with them. Explain that you only have X to spend, and tell them why you would be a good home for the calf. I can think of a few families that I would be VERY negotiable with because I've seen first hand how hard they work and how well they take care of their cattle. In contrast though there are also some families I know that could easily afford any calf I have, but I'd rather not sell it than sell it to them because they don't care about their calves. I know a lot of other breeders would agree so just keep that in mind.
 

Still Tryin

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Joined
Aug 13, 2010
Messages
101
But how many times have you seen that really thick one that can't walk as good beat a calf that walks like a cat but gives it up on thickness. Happens a lot.
 

The Show

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Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
841
Location
Colorado
It does. I'm not talking about giving up a ton of muscle, but if their really close the sounder one will always win.
 

ChristaCheatham

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Joined
Aug 8, 2011
Messages
302
Thanks everyone! All of the comments really help! I've expressed interest in a shorthorn steer that I will be looking at in a few weeks! There is also another club calf farm not far from where I live to look at as well!
 

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